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        传统村落

        “人文河南,古村乡韵”系列(3):郏县李口镇张店村 高官辈出 张良故里成了“明清官宅博

        发布日期:2015-02-11???点击量:


        时间:2013年01月18日    文章来源:《大河报》

        张良故里成了“明清官宅博物馆”
        郏县李口镇张店村高官辈出,仅明清两代受皇封者共六十多人
        至今仍保存296间明清官宅





        保存完好的张乐舜提督府大门楼



          

        阅读提示

          这是一个张姓人居多的普通村庄,他们多以张良后人自居,原中国文物研究所所长罗哲文来村里考证后也留下了“西汉留侯张良故里”的墨宝。

          去年12月月末的一天,大河报记者来到被誉为“张良故里”的郏县李口镇张店村。飘飘洒洒的雪花中,记者惊讶地发现,这里不但出了张良,亦有不少古代高官,被称之为进士庄,仅明清两代五品以上的官员就十二人,受皇封者共六十多人。这些人在张店村修建的宅院被称为官宅,而张店村至今尚保存296间明清官宅,其精致的雕饰、威严的门庭,鳞次栉比的宅院,颇似一座“明清官宅博物馆”。

          □记者 温中豪 文 李文波 图

          A

          普通小村出了个帝师张良

          阴沉的天空开始下起了小雪,去年12月下旬的一天,我们的车还没到郏县李口镇张店村,一座横跨道路的牌坊出现在记者眼前,“西汉留侯张良故里”,指着这行醒目的大字,陪同记者采访的郏县县委宣传部工作人员说:“这是原中国文物研究所所长罗哲文特意给张店村题写的。”

          张良是和诸葛亮齐名、妇孺皆知的人物。作为西汉时期著名政治家、军事家,其辅佐刘邦成就霸业,被誉为一代帝师。罗哲文等专家考证认为,被汉高祖刘邦称为“运筹帷幄之中,决胜千里之外”并封为留侯,被后世尊为“谋圣”的张良,就出生在大河报记者探访的张店村。

          郏县县委宣传部工作人员告诉记者,张店村以前有不少张良的遗迹,如留侯祠等,其内有张良塑像??上гㄖ夥藕蟊换?,仅存遗址。张店村有3000多口人,大部分姓张,自称张良的后裔。

          说起张良,张店村的村民乃至不少郏县人都颇以此为荣,当地至今还有不少关于张良的传说。据村民张四林讲,农历四月初十是古时传下来的留侯祠庙会。农历又称为小麦会。这天家家户户吃面条,说是为祝贺张良的生日而吃的。古庙会传到今天,内容变了,人们会在前一天忙起来准备酒菜,有的还买鞭炮要庆贺一番,吃面条成了一种象征。也有的给张良爷燃烧香烟,虔诚地许愿。过去村里还要演几场戏,剧目大多与张良有关,如《鸿门宴》、《霸王别姬》等。唱词多是“一步高一步低,好似霸王别虞姬,一步低一步高,好似张良品玉箫”“八洞神仙数张良”等。

          在张店,关于张良的传说早已植根于村民的生活。据村民张丙阳讲,“摆山”是当地村民最乐玩的一项棋艺类娱乐活动,据传是张良的布阵图。特别是村中年长者,不论是田间地头,门前街口,只要两人说好,就在地上划三个相套着的方框,四角四边连起来就是棋盘,用不同的石块,或小棍、树叶作为各自的棋子开始下棋。主动方会说:“叫你三盘不能赢”,对方就会说:“来吧,张良的布阵法你还没有学会。”

          虽然是简陋得不能再简陋的棋盘,但村民们玩得不亦乐乎。胜者说张良的阵法奥妙无穷,你还得再学三十年,拜师吧。对方说,我让着你……据村民说,这是当地特有的玩法,别的地方很少见。传说这是张良的布阵图。

          B

          诸葛亮拜留侯留下墨宝

          “在古代,凡是到郏县为官的,都会到我们村拜拜张良,连诸葛亮都来过呢。”村干部王拴成说,空说无凭,他们村的确有这方面的物证。

          王拴成所说的物证,是一块在张店村出土的汉代石刻。

          郏县第三次全国文物普查工作队提供的资料显示,2006年2月,村民张振洋在原张店村的一处废墟中,偶然发现一块红石石刻。其长106厘米,宽40厘米,厚19厘米,在没有打磨的天然石面上,可以清晰地辨认出是建安6年诸葛亮携元直在拜留侯祖庙,瞻仰张良像后所写的一篇短文。

          石刻共六行五十七个字,字体为汉隶,铭载:“亮携元直,建安六年春,踏贤宗。观地势不严,然清静秀逸,乃龙凤之地。拜留侯,仰其像不威,然运筹帷幄,决胜千里,成帝王之师。吾辈叹之、敬之、效之。”

          中国书法家协会理事、学术委员会副主任周俊杰在鉴赏过该石刻的拓片后认为:“此石隶书结体方正,清隽而疏朗。因非庙堂之用,故又具洒脱飘逸之气。文字线条瘦劲而爽健,尽管已到汉末,线的起收与转折处已出现圭角,这是汉以后所有隶书最明显的特征,但此石气息上仍然弥漫着只有汉人才有的淳厚、高古、苍茫之气。年轻的诸葛亮并非以书名世,而此偶尔乘兴所书的数十字,却使我们感受到了其文之畅、其书之精、其情之诚。余曾云:‘汉人书无一不佳者’,此可证之。”

          诸葛亮生活在大量使用竹简记事的东汉末期,真迹留世甚少。特别是青年时期的诸葛亮,真迹更为稀缺。石刻再现了1800年前诸葛亮在青年时期的书法艺术,实为珍贵。目前,张店汉石碑拓片已被收录至《中原文化大典·书法典》。

          张良文化的研究者张向阳认为,该石刻是诸葛亮于建安六年春来此拜祭张良后写下的一则游记,结合当地“诸葛亮曾到张店来过”的民间传闻,该石刻是诸葛亮与张良故里张店村有渊源的力证。

          第三次全国文物普查的时候,罗哲文来到张店村,根据张店村的诸多历史遗存和相关资料认定张店为张良故里,并留下了:“西汉留侯张良故里”的墨宝。

         

          C

          近300间官宅见证昔日辉煌

          称张店村人杰地灵,并非妄言:这个村不但出了大名鼎鼎的张良,在明清两代还出了很多进士,被称为进士庄。据郏县第三次全国文物普查工作队提供的资料显示:“明代隆庆年间,张店村人张乐舜(字见衡)官拜九门提督,张崇为刑部主事,仅五品以上的官员就十二人。据张姓家谱记录,明清受皇封者共六十多人。”

          明清这些张店籍的官员,大都在张店修建有自己的宅院,被当地人称为官宅。这样的官宅至今在张店村依然随处可见,现存比较完好的官宅296间,建筑面积7091平方米,保存较好的东官宅、西酉盛、北义和等多处造型各异、精致庄重的官宅,其砖雕、木雕至精美,房舍至庄重大气,让人叹为观止。     

          其中的明代九门提督张乐舜的官宅,位于张店村东西大街中段,其原来的五进院,现仅存两院,后院已破败不堪。前院主体建筑为穿堂式大客厅,共五间,建于一米高的台基之上,房体通高8.33米,看起来非常有气魄。

          该宅院为张乐舜于明代隆庆年间修建。据张店《张氏家谱》记述:张乐舜,明隆庆举人,曾任保定府通判。性忤权贵,挂冠而归,后驻易州奉敕提督紫荆关。张乐舜的次子张化鹏,先后任过新野县教谕、陈州学正等职。张乐舜父子位居高官,给其府第家宅取堂号为“裕恒堂”,寓富裕恒久之意。其宅第也被敬称为“提督府”,以示张姓宗亲族人张乐舜曾任提督而满族荣耀。

          大客厅由60多岁的村民张国振居住,“我这房子是土改时分的。”张国振指着由红石作基,青砖砌墙,灰瓦覆顶,雕砖起脊的房子说,这房子结实得很,住到现在都没啥事。

          大客厅前檐下有四根明柱,柱下均有高0.8米的浮雕吉祥图案。檐廊下主次间皆装饰棂子门扇,门扇上雕刻吉祥图案和篆书寿字。值得称道的是,提督府木石雕刻,有盘龙、滚狮等图案,尽显明清古建雅韵。

          厅内正间距后墙过厅门1.7米处设有高大的木质屏风。屏风上部悬挂有刻着“裕恒堂”三个大字的匾额,“以前客厅里挂了很多匾,解放后人们烤火时把它烧了。”指着木柱上依然留存的铁质石榴状挂钩,张国振说:“那是悬挂匾用的。”屏风后面有通往后院的便门,已被现居的房主为居住方便堵死。

          穿行在村内,记者仿佛进入了一座官宅博物馆。村中除了提督府,还有位于村内东西大街西端的清朝道光进士、刑部主事张崇的宅院。

          张崇官宅坐北向南,大门临街,宅院多为两层、三层,为砖木结构楼房。其中的一处宅院主楼为三层,整个楼高7米。一层为当地盛产的红石所砌,高达两三米,一楼以上为大青砖垒砌。

          让人称奇的是,一楼的窗户竟然为整块石头雕刻而成,二楼则为两个拱形小窗,三楼为一方形窗。

          虽然宅院距今久远,但室内的楼梯还能上人。记者顺着宽厚结实的木梯而上,二楼当年的木质小窗还能打开,记者抽去木窗背后的木栓,推开窗户远眺,只见洁白的雪花飘落在青砖黛瓦上,错落有致的四合院房顶覆满白雪的瓦楞映入记者眼帘,眼前一片清灵、肃静。

          手扶这冰冷的青砖,心中蓦然一动,百年前的此时,是否也是这样一个雪天,是谁在这里凭窗远眺?

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